This year’s AW19 London fashion week was bursting with box-fresh trends and creativity. We picked out some of our favourite stories.
Perhaps echoing the drive towards more eco-friendly forms of fashion, there were shades of sage all over the catwalks. Marc Jacobs went for ice-cream shades with pistachio frou-frou dresses and wrap coats, while Molly Goddard’s seafoam tulle was fit for urban mermaids everywhere. Jil Sander’s pale, olive polo-necks were a more cerebral take on the trend.
Designers embraced utilitarian style, with practical boiler suits stomping down many runways. Hermès’ take was vibrant and colour-soaked, Armani’s more sober, while Alexa Chung, Stella McCartney and Giambattista Valli all had their own takes on the all-in-one wardrobe solution. Dressing has never been simpler.
Get Into The Groove
The 80s obsession shows no sign of abating. Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton’s oversized lapels, power shoulders were straight out of Melanie Griffith’s Working Girl wardrobe. Escada’s belted fuchsia and yellow power suits were a more cartoon-like take on the trend, while Isabel Marant’s glitzy ruching ratcheted up the indulgent glamour. Meanwhile, the decade’s favourite denim finish, acid-wash, crept back at Proenza Schouler and Alexander Wang, Isabel Marant, Celine and Balmain. More specifically, the 80s peplum is back, according to Christopher Kane. His show was filled with extra waist-cinching additions over simple white dresses. JW Anderson also drew focus to the waist. An extra-wide belt is an easy trend-nodding staple, wear it with every supersized jumper or skirt you own.
Take a Bow
Adding drama, flourish and a finishing ta-da to outfits, bows were everywhere. They exploded from the busts of taffeta gowns, trailed dramatically from shoulders. Roksanda adorned jewel-coloured dresses with mustard yellow velvet designs. At Emilia Wickstead they were tied supersized like angel wings, adorning the backs of dresses. At Erdem’s show, bows appeared at the shoulders, down spines and around necks, while at Miu Miu black satin bows added a punky edge to the shoulders of denim dresses.
In an extension of the trend, many shows erupted in an explosion of ruffles. Looks were rippling with feathers and strewn in otherworldly constellations of crystals at Katrantzou. There were lashings of semi-sheer layers, floral prints, organza, and jewelled hairbands at Simone Rocha. Most dramatically, the tulle skirts at Goddard featured integrated air vents that blew puffs of air up the models’ huge tulle skirts.
This hippy-dippy, rainbow hue treatment is hot this summer. Dior embellished mini-dresses in psychedelic swirls, while Stella McCartney’s boilersuits were trippier than a mug of acid-spiked tea.
From crochet to fringing, applique and tassels, a crafty aesthetic swept through the spring collections. Carolina Herrera, Altazurra and Chloé were all cool with crochet, while JW Anderson showed fishermen-style weaves.
Up-and-coming designer Marine Serre’s show majored in surfer-style neoprene. Calvin Klein and Etro both took a deep dive into scuba-inspired ensembles while Hermès’ neoprene swimsuit under a work-appropriate leather skirt was fresh and wild. Christopher Kane had a more fetishistic take on the innovative material trend, with rubber and liquid latex outfits and “rubberist” and “looner” prints.
Hand Me Downs
A simple but effective way of injecting glamour, Shrimps, Richard Quinn, Erdem and Richard Malone all topped off their looks with tailored gloves. Old school. Simple. Classy.